There are days when I want to go somewhere not too far from Tokyo — somewhere I can wander slowly, without a rigid plan, and let the journey itself be part of the pleasure. On one such day, I boarded the Enoden (Enoshima Electric Railway) at Fujisawa and let it carry me along the coast to Kamakura and beyond. Along the way: one of the most talked-about Starbucks in Japan, a quietly beautiful art museum in a Victorian villa, and a California coffee roastery that feels entirely out of place in the best possible way.
Getting to Fujisawa: Your Starting Point
From Shinjuku, Fujisawa is easy to reach. The Odakyu Line is the cheapest option (¥597, about 60 minutes via the Odakyu Romance Car stop at Katase-Enoshima); the JR Shonan-Shinjuku Line is faster and slightly more expensive (¥990, around 50 minutes). Either way, you’ll arrive at Fujisawa Station, where the Enoden line begins.
Riding the Enoden: One of Japan’s Most Scenic Railways
The Enoden runs for 10km between Fujisawa and Kamakura, threading through residential streets, forests, and coastline. The whole ride takes about 34 minutes — and for much of it, the sea is right outside the window.
The most dramatic stretch is near Kamakura Koko-mae Station, where the train hugs the shoreline so closely that the waves feel within arm’s reach. This view has become famous as the setting of a pivotal scene in the manga and anime Slam Dunk, and on clear days the backdrop of mountains and ocean is genuinely breathtaking.
I’d recommend buying the Noriorikun 1-day pass (¥650 for adults) — it covers unlimited rides on the entire Enoden line and lets you hop on and off freely.
At the Kamakura terminus, look for the track bumper: a small green frog marks the end of the line, quietly celebrating the fact that everyone aboard has arrived safely. It’s one of those tiny details that somehow makes the whole journey feel more complete.
Starbucks Reserve® Kamakura Onarimachi
About a 3–4 minute walk from the west exit of Kamakura Station, this is not an ordinary Starbucks. It’s a Reserve® store — a premium tier within the Starbucks brand — and it occupies a building with a remarkable history.
The site was once the home of manga artist Yokoyama Ryuichi (1909–2001), creator of the beloved postwar comic strip Fuku-chan and the man behind the iconic “Hyochan” soy sauce dispenser figures still found in the Kiyoken restaurant chain. The distinctive clay statuettes — which come in red, yellow, and other colours — have been a symbol of Yokohama and the Shonan area for decades.
The interior is spacious and lovingly preserved, with the original terrace and poolside garden still intact. Sitting on the terrace looking out over the pool, with the wooden architecture of the former residence around you, feels genuinely unlike any other café experience in Japan.
I ordered a hand-drip (pour-over) Reserve® coffee — a Sulawesi, as I recall — alongside a seasonal chestnut dessert. Watching the barista prepare a single cup with careful attention to water temperature and pour rate is a small pleasure that ordinary Starbucks visits don’t offer.
This store has been cited in countless “most beautiful Starbucks in Japan” lists. Deservedly so. Come early if you want a terrace seat.
| Location | 15-11 Onarimachi, Kamakura, Kanagawa 3–4 min walk from Kamakura Station West Exit |
|---|---|
| Hours | 7:00–20:00 |
| WiFi | Available |
| Power outlets | None |
| Parking | None |
Yoh Shomei Art Museum (葉祥明美術館)
One stop back toward Fujisawa on the JR Yokosuka Line brings you to Kita-Kamakura, a quieter, greener corner of the Kamakura area. About 10 minutes’ walk from the station, through a neighbourhood of temples and moss-covered stone walls, is the Yoh Shomei Art Museum.
The building itself sets the tone immediately: a Victorian-style Western house surrounded by a garden. The artist Yoh Shomei (born 1946) is a painter and picture book author whose work is characterised by vivid blue skies, small animals, and a quality of gentle warmth that is difficult to describe but immediately felt. His paintings don’t ask anything of you — they simply make you feel, for a moment, that everything is going to be fine.
During my visit, the museum was showing original picture book illustrations for Chiisana Jiko (Little Zico) — a warmly illustrated story inspired by the Brazilian football legend Zico. The coexistence of original artworks, personal bookshelves, and lived-in furniture makes visiting feel less like a gallery and more like stepping into someone’s home.
The museum shop offers prints, postcards, and books — easy to browse, easy to buy as a memento. Admission discount coupons are available on the official website.
| Location | 318-4 Yamanouchi, Kamakura, Kanagawa 10 min walk from Kita-Kamakura Station |
|---|---|
| Hours | 10:00–17:00 |
| Admission | Adults ¥600 / Children ¥300 (discount coupon available on official website) |
VERVE Coffee Roasters Kita-Kamakura
About 5 minutes’ walk from Kita-Kamakura Station, past the entrance to Engakuji Temple, is VERVE Coffee Roasters. If the name sounds Californian, that’s because it is: VERVE was founded in Santa Cruz in 2007 and has become one of the standout specialty coffee roasters on the US West Coast. Their first Japanese location opened in Shinjuku in 2016; this Kita-Kamakura roastery, which opened in 2020, has a kitchen and a much more spacious, relaxed feel.
Inside, the décor leans into the California-lifestyle aesthetic: light wood, clean lines, a bright open space. The staff are notably friendly — with warmth that feels genuinely Californian rather than performed. It’s an atmosphere that invites you to linger.
I ordered a cappuccino and the pastrami avocado pressed sandwich (¥900), made with pumpkin bread from a local Kamakura bakery. The sandwich is substantial and excellent — the kind of thing that would work as lunch or a late afternoon meal after a long day of walking.
The contrast between the surroundings — ancient temples, moss, mountain air — and this light, cheerful California café is oddly perfect. By late afternoon, after the Enoden ride, the Starbucks terrace, and a quiet hour in the art museum, VERVE felt like exactly the right place to end the day.
| Location | 1395 Yamanouchi, Kamakura, Kanagawa 5 min walk from Kita-Kamakura Station |
|---|---|
| Hours | 8:00–19:00 |
| Parking | Free parking available |
Summary: A Day on the Enoden
| Transport | Enoden 1-day pass “Noriorikun” ¥650 · unlimited rides Fujisawa–Kamakura From Shinjuku to Fujisawa: Odakyu ¥597 (~60 min) or JR Shonan-Shinjuku ¥990 (~50 min) |
|---|---|
| Starbucks Reserve® Kamakura Onarimachi | 3–4 min walk from Kamakura Station West Exit · 7:00–20:00 · no parking |
| Yoh Shomei Art Museum | 10 min walk from Kita-Kamakura Station · 10:00–17:00 · Adults ¥600 / Children ¥300 |
| VERVE Coffee Roasters Kita-Kamakura | 5 min walk from Kita-Kamakura Station · 8:00–19:00 · free parking |
The Enoden is one of those railways where the journey itself is the attraction. The 34-minute ride from Fujisawa to Kamakura, the coast at Koko-mae, the frog at the terminus — these small details accumulate into something that feels like a proper adventure, even when you’re back in your own city the same evening.
I’d recommend this route to anyone who wants a day trip that combines history, great coffee, art, and one of the most scenic train rides in the Kanto region. No hiking required.
